The Mughals treated their architectural labours with an indifference  which was quite surprising considering all the money and effort that  went into the construction of monuments. After the demise of the owner  of the monument or the person to whom the tomb was dedicated, it was  allowed to fall into disrepair. The British went a step further and  approached them with an intent to maim or destroy. The magnificent forts  of Agra and Delhi were turned into military garrisons. Marble reliefs  were torn down, gardens were destroyed and lines of barracks were  erected in their place. In the Delhi fort, the hall of public audience  was turned into an arsenal, the arches of the outer colonnades were  bricked over or replaced with wooden windows. In 1876, in an effort to  brighten up the fort for a visit from the Prince of Wales, the entire  hall was covered with a coat of whitewash. After the mutiny, it was  proposed that the Jama Masjid be destroyed and a government building  constructed in its place. Thankfully, this plan was shelved. By the 19th century, the  grounds of the Taj Mahal had become a favourite haunt for young English  gentlemen and their ladies. Open air balls were held on the marble  terrace in front of the main door and beneath Shah Jahan's lotus dome,  brass bands played as lords and ladies danced the night away. The  minarets became a favourite place for suicide leaps and the mosques on  either side of the Taj were rented out to honeymooners. Picnic parties  were held in the gardens of the Taj and it was not uncommon for  revellers to arm themselves with hammer and chisel and wile away the  afternoons chipping out the fragments of agate and carnelian from the  cenotaphs of the emperor and his queen. The Taj became the preferred  drinking haunt of Englishmen and its parks were strewn with the figures  of inebriated British soldiers. Mobs of careless Indians vied with the  British in contriving ways to exhibit their disrespect for the souls of  the dead Queen and King. The Indians held fairs in the grounds, sullying  the premises with orange peels and other debris. Lord William Bentinck,  the governor general of Bengal from 1828 to 33 and later the Governor  General of India, took scorn for native arts to a new high when he  announced plans to demolish the best Mughal monuments in Agra and Delhi  and remove their marble facades, which would be shipped to London where  they would be sold to members of the landed gentry who wished to  embellish their estates. Several of Shah Jahan's pavilions in the Red  Fort were indeed stripped to the brick and shipped off to England. In  fact, part of the shipment included pieces for George IV himself.   Finally, plans were made to dismantle the Taj Mahal and wrecking  machinery was moved into the garden grounds. Luckily, just as the  demolition crew was getting to work, word came in from London that the  first auction was a failure and all further sales stood cancelled. It  was not worth the money to demolish the Taj Mahal.   However, despite this condemnable attitude to the monuments, there were  many visitors who were struck by the Taj's beauty. As far away as  London, symmetrical walkways and marble fountains sprang up in parks,  domes became more bulbous, gardens took on the characteristics of  Persian arabesques, cupolas and kiosks and appeared on the fronts of  government offices and even in America, in official buildings such as  the Capitol Building of Rhode Island, one can discern an outline  suspiciously reminiscent of the Taj. Clearly, the beauty of the Taj was  infectious.   Lord Curzon loved the Taj. Shocked at the monument's dilapidated state,  he restored it to its present condition. With his encouragement, by the  beginning of the 1900s there was a growing interest in Indian art.   In Delhi and Agra, more than £50,000 was spent on renovating the  dilapidated monuments.   Military units were evacuated from the forts of both cities and a  multitude of marble mosques and tombs, which had been turned into police  stations, ticket offices and kitchens were returned to their proper  use.                 
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Sunday, 23 March 2014
How India Almost Lost the Taj
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